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MFW: the hybrid style, streetwear and contemporary, by JieDa

MFW: the hybrid style, streetwear and contemporary, by JieDa
The Japanese brand JieDa returns to Milan Fashion Week to present the Spring / Summer '22 INTOLERANCE fashion film broadcast digitally on the CNMI platform.  

“Participating in the Milan fashion week in recent seasons has meant an important evolution for JieDa and has brought great visibility to the brand.  

Milan, with its brand portfolio, is the platform best suited to JieDa, the identity, values and vision of our brand.

I believe that Jieda's mix of tailoring and sportswear and attention to fabrics cannot find a better international stage, ”

said Hiroyuki Fujita, creative director of Jieda.

The inspiration of Underground, JieDa's SS2022 collection

Inspired by the photography book of Japan underground, the famous Tokyo metropolitan tunnel photo studio from 2000 by Japanese photographer Hideaki Uchiyama, the JieDa SS22 collection is titled UNDERGROUND.

The designer was impressed by the cover of a 2004 album by Japanese DJ and producer Takkyu Ishino, a bottom-up shot of a vertical access shaft to the Tokyo subway illuminated with a shining green light and allowing a glimpse of the sky.

And here for the SS2022 JieDa explores the visual dichotomy of artificial light that spreads from the deep darkness of the earth and pays homage to the underground journey as a metaphor for man's path towards the unknown, through the stripping of the ego and the recovery of hope.

Like the lights that struggle from the bowels of the earth to reach the sky, so we are all called to embark on a journey that will lead us out of the pandemic.

In those lights the designer saw the need for freedom, to get out of the dark and back to the light.

Colors

Uchiyama's images shape the entire design process of the SS22 collection, from the details of the paper-models, to the fabrics, to the color palette.

The collection is a continuous search for the balance between dark and present light.

A rather dark summer color palette made of dark browns and blacks but also mint and bright green - recalling the color of the metropolitan tunnel on the cover of Takkyu Ishino - for trousers and t-shirts that insert deep slits behind the knee or on the elbow, almost to represent glimmers of light.

The fabrics

Even the use of shiny and shiny technical nylon fabrics , coordinated with the original fabrics of the Jieda signature developed by the designer in collaboration with Japanese textile producers, such as crinkled velvet, corduroy, pure wool, reflects the attempt to capture and reproduce light.

The silhouettes

The silhouettes of the collection recall the iconic and unmistakable shapes of JieDa, blending luxury sportswear with contemporary tailoring.

However, in SS22 the fitting of tailored jackets and trousers appears even more pronounced and oversized and the styling plays even more with overlaps.

In the sportswear elements, the JD 88 logo, which, embroidered on causal jackets and trousers and printed on jersey t-shirts, refers to the designer's year of birth. The washed denim in ecru and indigo is combined with models in eco-leather, in beige and brown, which recall the AW2 collection. 

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